Maintenance Instructions for Tops with Waterlox Finishes

To ensure its longevity and maintain its beauty, it's important to understand how this finish works and how to properly care for your countertop over time.  Think of your countertop like a piece of fine furniture—it will develop character and a natural patina with use, much like a table or desk. We call this “life’s patina.” Unlike sprayed-on furniture finishes, Waterlox is hand-applied, creating a thicker, more durable protective layer. Its excellent sealing properties make it particularly well-suited for wet areas, such as around sinks. It’s also food-safe and easy to reapply, which is why we use it exclusively on all our countertops.

Water Resistance & Maintenance

Many customers ask about white glass rings that appear on other furniture finishes. With Waterlox, this is not an issue—another reason we trust it, especially in moisture-prone areas. That said, standing water should always be wiped up with a dish towel after use. Prolonged puddling, especially near seams or edges, can cause damage over time. While Waterlox is an excellent finish, it is important to remember that harsh chemicals are not your wood countertop’s friend. Pay close attention to the “Do Not Use” section below.

How long the finish lasts depends largely on how you care for it. With normal use and proper care and maintenance, the Waterlox finish will last many years without recoating. Many customers enjoy the natural aging process and appreciate the patina as part of the charm of wood tops. It is important to understand that your care and maintenance are what really determine the longevity of your top.  For sink areas, if you notice signs of wear from heavy use or accidental damage, it’s best to recoat or touch up those areas. While you can spot-treat worn sections, a full topcoat is often easier and blends better.

Cleaning and Care of Waterlox Finished Surfaces

After your surface has dried and cured for at least 7 days, regular cleaning may be performed. To properly care for your surfaces, use only recommended cleaning products and avoid using cleaners/chemicals that can damage your finish. For information on refreshing or recoating a Waterlox finished surface, see our guide or refer to the Waterlox website for more information.

Cleaning and Care

For cleaning and long-term care, we highly recommend reviewing the the “Cleaning and Care of Waterlox Finished Surfaces ” Guide (linked below).

“Cleaning and Care of Waterlox Finished Surfaces” Guide

Recommended Regular Cleaning Products

• Waterlox® Cleaner Concentrate – Follow the directions on the label for proper dilution steps for your cleaning job. Excellent for heavy-duty cleaning and large areas. Follow with a clear water rinse on food contact surfaces or after heavy-duty cleaning.

• Waterlox® Wood Surface Cleaner – Follow the directions on the label for proper use. A ready-to-use product that can be used on any project, but is specially formulated for food contact surfaces. Does not need to be rinsed.

• Warm water with a mild detergent – Avoid dish detergents (like Dawn®) as these are designed to break down oils. Recommended to rinse with clean water to remove any soap residues.

• Vinegar and Water – Mix 1 ounce of white vinegar into a gallon of warm water. Ideal for light, everyday cleaning.

• Murphy Oil Soap (1) – Follow the directions on the label. This will leave a residue on the surface; therefore, it may reduce the gloss. See the footnotes for more information.

• Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner – Non-polar solvents like VM&P Naphtha or Turpentine2 can be used to clean up stubborn marks or scuffs. Not recommended for regular cleaning, but are safe to use on stubborn messes.

Heavy Duty Cleaning

For heavy-duty cleaning, the Waterlox® Cleaner Concentrate is a good first step. Follow the heavy-duty cleaning dilution steps and use them to clean up after parties or other events that require a little extra cleaning.  

For very heavy cleaning, such as stripping off cleaner residues or preparing for a recoat, it is recommended to use TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a TSP substitute. Follow the dilution/mixing instructions for your particular brand and follow with a clear water rinse.

General Tips

To extend the life of your surfaces, there are some common tips to avoid more labor intensive repairs.

• Don’t allow puddles of water to stay on the surface – The occasional drop or sweating glass will not cause problems for Waterlox®, but try to avoid standing puddles. If these find the edges of boards or cracks, they may seep into the wood and cause staining or warping. Wipe up standing water when possible.

• Don’t trap water – Similar to the first point, do not allow water to become trapped in direct contact with your wood surface. Waterlox® finishes will hold up for a while, but water tends to find a way, given enough time. Common problems are under house plants, soap dishes, pet bowls, or other items that may be near the sink. If the water can freely evaporate, it will not cause a problem, but if it's trapped under a bowl, tray, or mat, it may cause damage.

• Use a soap dish – Soaps are designed to break down grease and oil to wash it away. Waterlox® products are oil-based finishes; therefore, prolonged exposure to even mild soaps and detergents can slowly break down the finish. This can lead to staining or damage to the film.

• Protect against heat and abrasive surfaces – Items with abrasive bottoms, such as terracotta pots, may cause damage. Likewise, placing hot dishes directly on the countertop can also damage your top. We recommend using silicone trivets underneath hot or abrasive dishes, pots, and/or pans.

Absolute DO NOT USE Products

Some cleaners/products can actually damage or completely remove most Waterlox® finishes. These should be avoided.

• Bleach/Ammonia - Avoid all cleaners that contain bleach or ammonia. These products will break down the finish (either quickly or over time, depending on the concentration) and can remove the finish or cause it to become sticky with frequent use.

• Other manufacturers' floor care products – Some of these products contain special additives that may replenish or restore their particular finishes. This may leave residues or cause damage to the Waterlox® finish.

• Dish Detergents – Dish detergents are designed to break down stubborn grease and other organic (food) stains. Waterlox® products are essentially a VERY stubborn organic coating. Chronic use will start to break down the coating and may cause it to become sticky.

• Acetone³, MEK, and Denatured Alcohol – Many readily available cleaning solvents you can find at the hardware store can be used to remove common stains. Non-polar solvents like Mineral Spirits, Paint thinner, Citrus Solvent or even Turpentine will NOT harm Waterlox. Polar solvents like MEK, MAK, Denatured/Isopropyl Alcohol, Lacquer Thinner, and Acetone can damage Waterlox® finished surfaces.

• Oven Cleaners, Baking Soda Pastes, and other Caustic Cleaners – Waterlox® products are popular for use on countertops and floors, which are sometimes in the vicinity of ovens and cook tops. These cleaners are excellent at breaking down organic matter (i.e., food) to then wash or scrub it away. Caustic oven cleaners and baking soda (if left unattended) can eat through a Waterlox® finish very quickly.

Products to Avoid

1. Wax containing products – These typically will not damage the finish, and wax can be popular for some furniture or fine woodworking. Wax is not necessary for protection, and it tends to cause more issues going forward in terms of maintenance and refinishing. See the Waterlox® website for their  Wax and Waterlox Guide for more detailed information.

2. Steam Cleaners/Steam Mops – These can force water into areas it wouldn’t normally be able to enter on its own by injecting hot vapor onto the surface. This tends not to harm Waterlox® finishes, but it can force water into gaps or cracks unnecessarily. Some customers use them regularly with good results, but we still recommend against it.

Footnotes

1  Murphy’s oil soap and other similar products will usually leave behind a very slight oily residue. Frequent use may cause the finish to look dull, and the residue needs to be removed. See the Heavy Duty Cleaning section for more information about removing residues.

2  Turpentine is the most aggressive, so avoid if possible. Do not over saturate or polish or allow to sit on surface for an extended length of time.

3  Acetone (nail polish remover) is excellent at removing dried Waterlox® products from unintended surfaces.

Repairing Scratches

Your wood countertop is much like any other fine wood furniture in your home. Over time, wood will naturally develop dings, dents, and light scratches — part of what we like to call “life’s patina.” These marks tell the story of everyday living and add character to your countertop and are part of the natural aging process.

However, if a scratch is deeper or more noticeable than you’d like, there are a few simple home remedies that can help minimize its appearance without refinishing the entire surface. While these methods can reduce visibility, the only way to completely remove a mark is to refinish the affected area.

FOR A STAINED COUNTERTOP WITH WATERLOX® FINISH 

If your countertop has a scratch that penetrates through the stain, revealing the natural wood beneath, here’s our best recommendation short of refinishing the entire surface.

At Sprague Woodworking, we use Zar and Old Masters brand stains on our wood countertops, followed by four coats of Waterlox® Urethane Finish to seal and protect the surface. Your original invoice lists the stain color selected for your project. Once you confirm the color, you can purchase ½-pint cans of the matching stain online or from any paint store that carries these brands.

To repair the scratch, use a small artist’s brush to carefully apply the stain to the affected area. Allow it to dry for 48 hours, then apply a small amount of Waterlox® over the scratch with another clean brush. Let the finish dry completely and reapply only if needed.

This method provides a temporary touch-up to minimize the appearance of larger scratches or dings. Please keep in mind that normal wear and tear—including light scratches, dents, and small dings—is part of the natural aging process of wood countertops. The only way to fully remove imperfections is to sand and refinish the entire surface.

FIXING SPOTS RESULTING FROM A CHEMICAL EXPOSURE (BLEACH, AMONIA, AND OTHER CAUSTIC CHEMICALS) 

If you’ve accidentally spill bleach or another harsh chemical on your countertop and it has removed the finish, the only way to restore it is to refinish the affected area.

To do this, you’ll need to sand the damaged section with an orbital sander, gradually working up to a final sanding with 180-grit sandpaper before applying a new finish. Because blending new and old finishes can be challenging, you may prefer to refinish the entire surface for a consistent look. 

Once sanded, apply the Waterlox® Urethane Finish—the same product we used to finish your top—following the application steps provided in the how-to videos on the Waterlox® website. This will help ensure proper adhesion and an even, durable result.